Tile Roofing

Tile Roofing




Fair and Square LLC is a Florida licensed contractor with extensive experience in the installation of clay and concrete tile roof in Fort Myers, Naples, and Sanibel in Florida.

The Difference Between Clay and Concrete Tile Roof

Fair and Square LLC is a Florida licensed contractor with extensive experience in the installation of clay and concrete tile roof in Fort Myers, Naples, and Sanibel in Florida. If you are looking for something that is both durable and resistant against any kind of weather, a clay roof is the best option for you. They are baked in kilns at extremely high temperatures, which allow the tiles to retain their strength and color for up to 100 years. Since they are available in a very wide variation of shape, color, and texture, you can personalize it to best suit your needs and preferences. 

Concrete roof tiles have become a very popular choice due to their durability and lower cost. The average lifespan of concrete tiles is about 50 years, and cost is likewise about half that of clay tiles. Concrete tile is a very durable and fire-resistant roofing material, and available in a wide range of colors and design Tile is one of the most affordable, long-term roofing solutions on the market. Not only does tile deliver long-lasting value, it adds curb appeal and increases property value. Low maintenance, energy-saving and aesthetic appeal make roof tile the best overall value in roofing products. 

Roof tile is offered in an extensive range of styles and colors to compliment any architectural design. Most tile roofs, ranging from traditional style Spanish barrel to a low-profile slate, warranties are available from 40 to 50 years.

Here are more advantages of this roofing material

  • Superior durability and long service life
  • Low maintenance requirements and lifecycle cost
  • Wide choice of colors and patterns
  • Excellent insulating properties for energy savings
  • Fireproof with a Class-A rating
  • Environmentally friendly


Q: I plan to re-roof my early-’60s ranch house and am concerned about ventilation. The house now has three gable vents, with soffit vents in every rafter bayfront and back. My roof has a slope of 4:12, but I would like to have a ridge vent included. Will that be a problem? 

A: Ridge vents are great, but I’d avoid them in this case. When a roof has a low pitch, such as this case does, it makes the possibility of snow or rain to be blown into the attic through the vent. So, unless you’ve noticed signs of ventilation problems, such as ice damming in the winter or roof shingles bubbling and curling from overheating in the summer, I think you should stay with your existing arrangement. By the way, 4:12 is about the minimum slope suitable for asphalt or fiberglass shingles. If the maximum exposure of the shingles is reduced by only ½ an inch, you improve general weather protection; you can also do this by using 6 nails for every shingle rather than the standard of 4 nails. 

Q: Myself and my partner recently purchased a two-story home that was built 84 years ago. It has a 40 to 50-year-old ground-level porch out back, and the roof leaks where it comes out from the side of the house. Are there any easy solutions, other than re-roofing the entire porch? 

A: It’s always tricky to pinpoint the exact location of a leak. Often times, leaks appear to be leaking from one point, but typically it’s from another source that it has spread from creating pathways to a false source. So before you jump into this job, try to determine where the leak is coming from. If the porch has a finished ceiling, for example, remove a few boards and check the underside of the roof for water stains—they may help pinpoint the leak’s location. In an instance where a low-pitched roof is involved, the only option may be to remove all of the roofing in order to locate the exact source of the problem. For most cases such as this, the leak is being caused by the flashing, and not the actual roofing material. Damaged, corroded, or improperly installed flashing is a common problem at this location (and a lot of other locations, too).When the material is no longer in good condition, then it’s likely that the whole area of siding will also be damaged due to the flashing and will need removal. Otherwise, the only reason to remove all of the roofing would be if it’s nearing the end of its useful life. 

A capable roofing contractor should be able to make this repair for you. You truly should avoid hiring a general handyman in a case like this. You might save some money in the short run, but slathering roofing tar on the flashing doesn’t really fix the problem and can actually accelerate corrosion by trapping moisture between the tar and the metal. If it does turn out that the roofing is shot and has to be removed, you should have the flashing replaced at the same time. 

Q: What causes the mold on my roof? How can I get rid of it? How can I keep it from coming back? 

A: Stains and lines on a roof that has a similar appearance as black mold, in most times on a light-colored shingles, are in reality just a type of algae called Gloeocapsa magma. Commonly found in climates with warm, humid summers, it does no damage to the roofing, but it certainly does looks bad. 

One option is to remove all of the marked shingles and replace them with shingles of a dark color to camouflage the non-damaging staining; this is done by replacing the shingles with that which is laced using copper granules that repel algae particles, and only if the shingles are worn out. 

Another alternative to this would be to use a spray wash that is a solution of both water and bleach, which will get rid of the growing algae. (No pressure washers, please. They’re likely to damage the shingles.) Just be sure to wet your foundation plantings first, and rinse everything in clean water when you’re done. If you choose the latter route, by advised to spray down any plants that may get dripped on by the cleaning solution with water prior to cleaning; plants that aren’t presoaked with water will potentially be damaged by the bleach solution. 

Prevent any algae regrowth by inserting strips of zinc or copper of about 6 inches beneath the row of shingling nearest to the roof’s peak. Leave approximately 1 to 2 inches of the lower edge exposed to the weather. By doing this, it allows a portion of the metal molecules to wash off the roof to kill any potential algae trying to regrow. This strategy is used often, and you may have seen it before on other roof edges and along chimneys. The use of copper flashing can also help with preventing moss buildup by using the same bleach wash and metal as previously mentioned. We are experts in tile roof in Fort Myers and nearby areas.



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